Temple of Philae: how to visit the sanctuary of Isis in Aswan

In brief

Philae is the temple of Isis, the most popular of the Egyptian goddesses, set on an island in the Nile just south of Aswan. It is the last great sanctuary of pharaonic religion and one of the most photogenic sites in Egypt, since you arrive by boat. Here is what you need to know to visit it in good conditions.

• Location: Agilkia island, between the two dams, about ten kilometres south of Aswan
• Access: ten minutes by motorboat from the Shallal landing
• Length: one and a half to two hours, crossing included
• Best time: at opening in the morning or in the late afternoon
• Included in our 6 and 7 day cruises and in our 8 day classic tour

Why is the temple of Philae so special?

Philae is the great sanctuary of Isis, the mother goddess, wife of Osiris and mother of Horus. Her cult reached far beyond Egypt: people came from Nubia, Greece and Rome to honour her. The present temple dates mostly from the Ptolemaic and Roman periods, between the fourth century BC and the third century AD.

It is also the place where the religion of the pharaohs died out last. The last known hieroglyphic inscription was carved here on 24 August 394 AD, on Hadrian's Gate. In the sixth century, under Emperor Justinian, the temple was closed and turned into a church: Coptic crosses carved into the walls are still visible.

Why was the temple of Philae moved?

The temple was moved because the Aswan dams threatened to drown it for good. After the first dam, completed in 1902, the island was under water for much of the year and visitors rowed between the column capitals. The High Dam, built in the 1960s, would have doomed the site forever.

As part of UNESCO's international campaign to save the monuments of Nubia, the temple was dismantled into more than 40,000 blocks, then rebuilt identically on the neighbouring island of Agilkia, reshaped to look like the original island. The work was completed in 1980. Since 1979, Philae has been a World Heritage Site together with Abu Simbel.

What should you see on the island of Philae?

You land at the south of the island, near the kiosk of Nectanebo I, the oldest part of the site. A long court lined with colonnades leads to the first pylon, about 18 metres high, where King Ptolemy XII strikes down his enemies before Isis. Beyond it, the court opens onto the mammisi, the birth house devoted to the birth of Horus.

The second pylon leads to the hypostyle hall and the sanctuary of Isis, where you can spot the Coptic crosses. As you walk round the island, do not miss the kiosk of Trajan, at the water's edge, nicknamed "Pharaoh's bed": fourteen columns with finely carved capitals, left unfinished, forming the most famous silhouette of Philae.

• The kiosk of Nectanebo I and the great colonnaded court
• The first pylon and its victory scenes
• The mammisi, birth house of Horus
• The sanctuary of Isis and the Coptic crosses
• Hadrian's Gate and the relief of the source of the Nile
• The kiosk of Trajan, known as "Pharaoh's bed"

How do you get to the temple of Philae from Aswan?

Getting to Philae takes two steps: about twenty minutes by road from central Aswan to the Shallal landing, then about ten minutes by motorboat to the island. The site ticket is bought at the landing, and the crossing is paid separately, per boat.

On our tours, everything is arranged: transfer, private boat, tickets and a visit with an Egyptologist guide. Philae is usually combined with the High Dam and the Unfinished Obelisk in the same half day, the day before or after the excursion to Abu Simbel.

When should you visit Philae and how long should you allow?

Allow one and a half to two hours in total, including an hour to an hour and a quarter on the island. The best time is opening in the morning, before the heat and the groups, or the late afternoon, when the stone turns golden. From October to April, Aswan's climate makes the visit pleasant at any time of day.

In the evening, a sound and light show is held on the island. Times and languages vary from day to day: check them locally or with us before you travel. In summer, be sure to visit early in the morning, as afternoons often exceed 40 °C.

What do our Egyptologists recommend for Philae?

Look at the temple from the boat before landing: it is the finest view of the site, and the only one that shows the kiosk of Trajan standing over the water. On the island, look on Hadrian's Gate for the scene of the god Hapy in his cave, which depicts the mythical source of the Nile. And keep a few minutes to sit by the water, facing the island of Biga, where the Egyptians placed the tomb of Osiris.